In early May of 2023, we were invited to join my Sister and her Husband midway through their tour of Italy. We were able to stay four days on the Amalfi Coast (near Capri Island) and then spend four days in Rome.
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Enjoy the pictures, location descriptions, and travel tips below:
We landed in Naples, and took a 90 minute taxi ride through Naples, past Vesuvius (active valcano pictured below), and through many winding roads up and over hills, and along sheer cliffs to get to where we were staying in the Amalfi Coast area.
We were the first guests at a newly renovated AirBNB property right on the Coast. There was nothing between us and the Tyrrhenian Sea. The views were incredible and the gentle sea breeze was magical. The property itself was very unique. It had a yard with lounge chairs and a hot tub, and outdoor kitchen and bar with covered seating, and a huge blacony with beautiful iron railings and plenty of seating. The two rooms were unique in that they were carved out of rock, so the only windows were on the front side facing the Sea. It wasn't until the 2nd day that we realized that they actually cut out underneath the road, so traffic was driving right over us. The noise was not bad though and the rooms were lovely.
The outdoor kitchen was so nice, because we all enjoy cooking and making cocktails, and we enjoyed sitting in the hottub with such incredible views.
The small town of Salerno was with walking distance, so since we were all tired from traveling, we just took a short walk to a nearby cafe. We were unsure of how the food would be, since it was such a small place, but we were blown away by how good the food was and how fresh the seafood was! The octopus was our favorite, and the staff was so nice. We soon learned that many cafes and restaurants will bring complimentary Limoncello to your table, which you have to try!
On Day 2 we mostly lounged around and enjoyed the property, but we did venture out later that day to explore Salerno and have a nice dinner.
Day 3 we decided to take the nearby ferry over to Capri Island, and we made a huge mistake. That morning, two cruise ships had pulled in, and we had to fight through huge crowds of people to get to the ferry dock. We managed to get tickets on a fully loaded ferry, and were able to get to the Island, but it was extremely crowded. We still got to do a little shopping, and had some amazing pizza at an outdoor cafe while sipping on Aperol Spritzers. You have to try this cocktail if you go. It is very popular in Italy right now, and is made with equal parts of Aperol (a bitter Italian liquor), champagne, and mineral water. The sweetness of the champagne balances the bitter liquor and it is quite refreshing and not overly sweet. Oh, and if you visit the Island, bring some change, because the public restrooms charge .50 Euro per person, per use. That was a bit unusual.
The ferry ride to and from the Island was worth the ticket price and then some! The views were incredible! All along the Sea, the houses are built into the cliffs and so each one is unique. I was in awe of the architecture and how each house and building hung onto the edges of the cliffs and no two were alike.
On the way back from Capri Island, we explored Maiori, which is the town where the Ferry docks are. There were a lot of shops and we purchased a lot of fresh local food to cook up back at our seaside paradise.
On Day 4 we explored more of Salerno. We were amazed by the fresh local produce shops, but we were surprised when they asked you not to touch the produce. Tina tried to pick up an unusually large lemon and the shop ownder hollered "No touchy!", it was quite funny and and we shared many laughs while telling each "no touchy" throughout the rest of the day. We explored the shops and some historical chapels, and enjoyed an amazing seaside dinner.
Day 5 was quite the adventure! We had to take a taxi to the train station, and the cab driver was very "motivated", so we were all a bit nauseated on the ride. We had reservations for a train from the nearest station to Rome, but the cab driver didn't know about some road closures for a local bike rally, so we cut it very close. We made the train with 20 minutes to spare, and thanks to some other tourists who recognized us as Americans, we located the proper platform and train. This train ride was like no other! The track was very smoooth, and when we were in the wide open areas between towns, it would hit speeds of 296 kmh (or 185mph)! That was officially the fastest we had moved on land for sure.
Alright, here is the most important travel tip of the blog: Upon our arrival in Rome, we were completly scammed. I'm only sharing this so that it doesn't happen to you. When we exited the train terminal, there was a line for taxi cabs that quite a few people were standing in. We had 4 people and many bags, and we were approached by a very high energy man who exclaimed that we need a big car for these bags. He ushered us past the normal line to a car that was waiting and we thought nothing of it. The car was large enough to accomodate our bags, but once we got in, the driver took off like a NYC cab driver. He was driving fast and talking even faster. We were legitimately concerned for our safety! When we arrived at our location, he got out and told us that he needed $40 euro. I wanted to pay for the fare, so I had counted my money on the way, while hanging on for dear life. I had a 50, a 20, and a 10 euro note. I handed him a 50, and he reached behind his back and came back with a 10. I assumed it was my change, until he said, no, I said 40! I said yes I gave you 50. He said no, you gave me this 10. I was flustered and confused, and we got him another 30 between us, and it wasn't until he sped off that we realized that he scammed us! The moral of the story is: do not go with drivers that pull you out of line. Stay in the taxi line and only ride with legitimate taxi drivers.
Anyway, the penthouse AirBNB that we stayed at in Rome was amazing! It was only 3 blocks from the Colliseum, and had a 300 degree wrap around balcony view of the City! We felt like royalty! The picture below shows me pointing to where the Colliseum in just beyond those buildings.
You could see most of the city from our back balcony and it had a walkway that went around the side and along the front as well!
Our first meal in Rome did not disapoint! My sister found a great little Mom and Pop Italian Restaurant 3 blocks from the Penthouse. The food was very authentic and the staff were wonderful. We had to adjust to the speed of life however, Italians are not as hurried as Americans are. So bring someone you enjoy spending time with and enjoy the experience.
After a late lunch, we decided to walk up to The Colliseum, since it was only 3 blocks away. It was a Sunday with no tours scheduled, so we were able to observe it without so many people around and inside it. I may say this more than once, but there is something really breath-taking about seeing a man-made structure that is over 2,000 years old!
The next morning, Day 6, we relaxed and enjoyed the Penthouse, and did a bit of shopping, and then found the coolest litte restaurant where they sat you in the wine cellar downstairs. It was beautiful and a really great experience. All four of us logged into Google and left 5 star reviews on the spot. The food was really good. I got a locally raised grassfed burger to change it up a bit and it was one of the best I've ever had!
After dinner, we walked up to The Collisium again to view it at night. I highly recommend doing so! Not only is it beautifully lit at night, but the energy is completely different. At night with fewer people around, you can feel a dark, almost heavy energy around it. Remember, you are talking about a structure that over 400,000 humans were brutally killed in, and over 1,000,000 animals faught to the death inside those walls. It's something that is hard to describe, but everyone described the same dark, foreboding energy.
The following morning, we set out for a tour of Vatican City. I would recommend this to everyone, even if you are not religious. The artwork and the history alone is mind blowing. Thinking about the thousands and thousands of hours spend building the structures and creating the artwork and sculptures in truly breathtaking.
Below you will the the balcony that The Pope appears on, as well as his view of the large courtyeard that holds thousands of people.
Inside the main Cathedral is even more breathtaking. The main dome is high enough that you could stand up the Statue of Liberty inside and still have room to spare!
The Main Alter is a thing of beauty and we caught it just the right time of day with the sun shining through the window. It was magical!
The Sisteen Chapel was truly a masterpiece. You could spend hours gazing on the artwork. There is no talking allowed inside, and you are forbidden from taking photos, but we may have risked being escorted out for one photo just to show you guys. Please don't judge us!
The entire tour felt a little bit rushed, because you always had people behind you waiting to pass through, and it was impossible to take in every detail. You could spend days there and not see everything. I was a bit ADD with everything, and all of the detail was a bit overwhelming. So once we left Vatican City, a large beer was in order just to calm down and process everything we had just seen.
We had been averaging $250 euros per night for a dinner for 4, so that night we decided to go to this fantastic delicatessan across the street from the Penthouse, and see how much meat and cheese we could get for $100 euros. You have to try this! We had an absolute feast, tried many things that you cannot find Stateside, and had plenty left over for breakfasts the next two mornings.
The next morning, we roamed around (pun intended) exploring a few of the other sites while we were waiting for our afternoon tour of The Colliseum. I promise you could spend weeks in Rome and still not see everything! We tried to take in as much as possible in our breif stay.
Finally it was our time to see inside The Colliseum! The walking tour was about 90 minutes long, and then they turned you loose to self-explore. It was beyond belief to see this place in person!
Since this was our last night in Rome, we explored a bit on the way to dinner, had some more amazing food and appetizers, and then Ubered back. Two things you might not know: Yes, Ubers are available in Rome using the same app, and you are allowed to walk around with open containers as long as you don't do anything silly. I was a little nervous walking past a group of Police Officers and Military Soldiers who were setting up security for a big event the next day, but they paid me no mind with my open beer.
The next morning, we took a 45 minute Uber ride back to the airport. Make sure you leave in plenty of time just to be safe. Let us know in the comments below if you have any questions, and don't forget that if you do not already have a Travel Agent, Tina would love to help you with your dream journey.
You can contact her via https://www.avoyatravel.com/experts/tina-olson/
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